No stranger to comebacks, Lentini’s, a fixture in
Gone is the stodgy, dated decor inside the mid-20th-century stone structure. Heavy velvet curtains were removed and now red walls and large picture windows create a bright, airy space. A wall separating the dining room from the bar was also removed, which further enhances the dining room’s spaciousness. Brushed-metal light fixtures have been added to the crystal chandeliers that have always defined this Italian eatery.
The new menu is, to say the least, extensive. Imagine page upon page of various pastas (baked, seafood, meat), risottos, Neapolitan-style pizzas, scaloppine, seafood, lamb, tenderloin and grilled meats. On a recent Friday night, a basket of soft, white bread and a dish full of fresh pesto welcomed us. Our server poured extra virgin olive oil over the pesto and left us with a delicious, garlicky dip.
The myriad appetizers range from an exotic octopus with pineapples to traditional Sardinian-style mussels and clams. An order of carpaccio di salmone affumicata (smoked salmon, $15) kicked off our evening. Rosy pink, the tender smoked salmon sat center plate with thin strips of creamy Italian provolone bordering it to create a starburst effect. The fresh ingredients stood out in this simple dish.
During a lunchtime visit, the melanzane alla parmigiana (eggplant Parmesan, $7) appetizer was a delight that could easily have been an entree. It arrived haphazardly put together, but taste made up for what it lacked in appearance. Slices of skin-on, lightly fried eggplant maintained a soft yet firm bite. A tangy, herbal, house-made marinara sauce and melted mozzarella covered the eggplant. The insalata di mare fredda (cold seafood salad, $14) was a quirky-but-successful combination of chewy squid rings, octopus bites, shrimp and mussels built on top of fresh greens. Lemon-herb vinaigrette dressed it. I found the salad refreshing and light, with ample portions of seafood. A hot version is also available.
All pastas and sauces are made daily from scratch, and it showed. My husband and I split gnocchi di patate erbe e verdure (gnocchi with greens, $14). These delicious tiny potato dumplings were fluffy and airy. A medley of roasted zucchini, eggplant, green pepper, onion and squash complemented the thimble-sized gnocchi and a full-flavored, chunky tomato sauce topped the dish without overwhelming it. I was also pleased with a lunch order of lasagne al forno (baked lasagna, $10). This dense block of lasagna featured layers of soft noodles and a generous portion of ground beef. A rich tomato sauce and melted mozzarella blanketed the noodles — a simple presentation, executed well, with great taste.
Likewise, my friend’s tagliatelle con petto di pollo (chicken Alfredo, $10) impressed us with its tasty flat egg noodles adorned in a creamy Alfredo sauce. The sauce maintained an equal balance of cheese, cream, butter and garlic. Thin strips of grilled chicken surrounded the pasta in a starburst appearance (clearly a plating tr/files/storyimages/at the restaurant). Overall, Lentini’s excelled with its pastas — a real upgrade from what I’d sampled on previous menus there, placing it on the top shelf for medium-price pasta offerings in
I wasn’t quite as impressed with its meat entrees. Brasato al barolo (braised beef, $18) reminded me of a well-done pot roast. While the meat was tender, it was also dry, so much so that the tasty red-wine marinara sauce (with Barolo, a rich, full-bodied Italian red wine) covering it couldn’t improve it. However, I enjoyed the accompanying cheesy scalloped potatoes. My husband’s filetto di manzo ai funghi con profumo di tartufo (beef tenderloin sauteed with fresh mushrooms and truffle oil, $24) was also mediocre. A heavy, oily sauce, overwhelmed with truffle oil, covered the tenderloin. I love truffles, but this dosage overpowered the beef as well as the large portions of portobello and button mushrooms.
Luckily for us that evening, a delicious torta tiramisu ($5) provided a sweet ending. Lady fingers soaked in a strong espresso complemented the light Italian custard made with whipped cream and mascarpone cheese. A touch of chocolate tied it all together.
The broad menu at the new Lentini’s offers dishes for many tastes. Though many offerings were laden with heavy ingredients, I didn’t leave with that heavy feeling I often associate with Italian restaurants. And now the formula is spreading. The same owners have already opened Milano Cafe by Lentini’s Ristorante on
