Karem’s Pub & Grill
9424 Norton Commons Blvd., 327-5646
Despite its east county location, Norton Commons plans to take a cue from village living. Its developers hope to create an environment where residents can visit doctors, retailers and restaurants within walking distance of their homes. Right now, construction workers seem to outnumber residents in the planned community east of Chamberlain Lane and north of I-71, but restaurant owner Louie Karem is counting on a big migration. He opened Karem’s Grill & Pub in January, the second business, and first restaurant, to call Norton Commons home.
Karem is no stranger to food service. He also operates Karem’s Deli and Catering in St. Matthews and he hopes to bring a Cheers-like atmosphere to the venue in the outer ’burbs. His enthusiasm already has rubbed off on the wait staff, which banters freely with guests. This small eatery mixes casual dining and a pub-like atmosphere. It packs four-tops, two-tops, bar and window seats, an open kitchen, a full bar and a service deli case selling Boar’s Head meats and cheeses as well as cold salads. However, when the restaurant reaches capacity, as it did when I visited, it didn’t feel overcrowded, just cozy.
Exposed brick walls are painted burnt orange and three-dimensional geometric shapes in bright green, purple and dark-red colors hang above the bar. An exposed ceiling painted black tones down the bold color palette. Sandwiches and grilled items dominate the menu, which also offers a few salads and soups. Appetizers include chicken fingers, loaded potato skins and peel-and-eat shrimp. The delicious triangle steak quesadilla ($7) could easily be a meal. A grill-marked warm tortilla was jam-packed with diced red and green peppers, Colby-Jack cheese and chopped pieces of Karem’s triangle steak (top sirloin seasoned and soaked in the house-recipe marinade). The tender, flavorful chunks of steak, melted cheese and crisp peppers were married perfectly. Cups of sour cream and salsa accompanied the dish.
The deli meat sandwiches (served with potato chips and a pickle) include standards such as maple turkey and tuna. More interesting are the signature subs and wraps. The Beast of Roast Beef grilled sub ($7) layered thinly sliced Boar’s Head roast beef, a horseradish-flavored Cheddar, bacon, spicy mustard and horseradish sauce on a sourdough roll (I opted for no bacon.) It was prepared warm enough so that the cheese melted over the meat and the roast beef’s juices were savory. Despite the spicy ingredients, the heat level remained subdued — better, I think, for picking out the various flavors.
During a lunchtime visit my server, who also doubled as a cook, offered to combine both chicken and steak after I couldn’t decide between a grilled chicken or triangle steak Philly wrap (both $7). It resembled the quesadilla, but was larger in size and filled with an abundant amount of diced triangle steak and grilled chicken, Colby-Jack cheese, diced red, green and yellow peppers, onion, lettuce and tomato. This hot, freshly prepared wrap oozed with a satisfying juicy flavor.
Karem’s dinner prices range from $9 to $11. Each entree comes with a choice of two sides from a list of eight. I ordered the mahi mahi dinner ($11). Eight ounces of blackened dolphinfish practically draped over the plate, sharing space with coleslaw and smashed potatoes. I appreciated the peppery seasoning that was grilled into the meaty fish, but the coleslaw was a too-typical mayo-based, sugary cabbage concoction. The smashed potatoes were prepared with ranch dressing and came topped with melted Cheddar and bacon.
My husband was pleased with his grilled chicken cordon bleu ($10), an eight-ounce grilled chicken breast stacked with smoked ham and melted Swiss cheese. He selected as sides a grilled zucchini and squash medley, which wasn’t mushy, and macaroni and cheese. The macaroni and cheese, a baked version sans bread crumbs, possessed a creamy cheese flavor but was a bit gooey.
Norton Commons seems to be banking on the if-you-build-it-they-will-come business plan — and so is Karem’s Pub & Grill. You may want to arrive early in the evening because the restaurant has been filling up fast.
