The first time I scanned the menu of Frankfort Avenue’s IRISH ROVER, on a winter’s day a dozen or so years ago, my eyes stopped at a colorfully described salmon dish "adapted from the menu of Aherne’s, a world-class seafood restaurant disguised as a family-run pub in the historic port city of Youghal." Ever since, I’ve considered the Rover’s Smoked Salmon & Potato Gratin ($6.95) among the best cold-weather tummy-warmers in town. A hefty mound of firmly cooked potato cubes held together by a casserole "glue" of cream and Swiss and Parmesan cheeses and liberally dotted with small pieces of smoked salmon, the dish packs lots of seafood-dairy flavor without being the least bit salty. Pair it with an English or Irish ale and you’ve got one satisfying January lunch or dinner treat. Both Rover locations (2319 Frankfort Ave., 899-3544; 117 E. Main St., La Grange, 222-2286) serve the entree.
