LouLife

Chef’s Corner
John Plymale

Executive chef John Plymale has been at the helm of Porcini (2730 Frankfort Ave., 894-8686) since the restaurant opened in 1992. Before that, the certified executive chef and graduate of Johnson & WalesUniversity, based in Providence, R.I., worked as an apprentice with the Grisanti food operations, training in hotels, independent restaurants and even the back of the St. Martin of Tours rectory at the long-departed Afro-German Tea Room. He currently lives in OldhamCountywith his wife Kim and two school-age daughters.

Where did you get a passion for food?
My grandmother and mom are both excellent cooks and gardeners. Now, I’m an avid gardener. My garden is half the size of a football field, with 400 tomato plants and 150 basil plants. I also grow squash, eggplants, peppers and more herbs. It’s nice taking food from the earth to the plate. It’s rewarding to pick tomatoes in the morning and see someone enjoy a tomato and mozzarella salad that evening. It goes along with my cooking style. It’s simple: We develop good flavors using the best possible ingredients.

What for you are Porcini’s signature dishes?
Grilled jumbo shrimp served with spring vegetable risotto and a lemon/garlic sauce. Since we’ve opened, we’ve served a grilled chicken, artichoke and pesto pizza; chicken Marsala; and a grilled veal rib chop. We can’t take those items off the menu.

Is there one cooking tool that you can’t live without?
Personally, it’s my grill. I love being outdoors. You’ll often find me grilling in my back yard. Professionally, it’s my rubber spatula. I scrape every ounce of sauce from a pot. I always stress to my staff not to waste anything.

Speaking of your staff, what would they be surprised to learn about you?
I played the cello from fourth to eighth grade.
 

Ever-Greens
Fresh tomato season may be winding down, but autumn never comes for the tart taste of the green variety favored by many Louisvillians. Compelled by popular demand to keep fried green tomatoes on their menus, restaurateurs look to other sources when the local supply dwindles, so diners can count on winning dishes featuring them every month of the year. You can’t beat in-season local produce for sweetness and taste, and the establishments below may still be offering great “greens” in inspired ways.

Bourbons Bistro (2255 Frankfort Ave., 894-8838) has offered a fried green tomatoes ($6) appetizer since it opened in April 2005. Served with a tomato chive aioli, this simply prepared dish remains a bestseller.

Browning’s Restaurant & Brewery (401 E. Main St., 515-0174) presents a dressed-up classic with its BL (f.g.) T sandwich ($9), which stacks bacon, lettuce and fried green tomatoes with mayo over toasted focaccia. It arrives with kettle chips and coleslaw.

Jarfi’s Bistro at the KentuckyCenter (501 W. Main St., 589-5060) mixes healthy with not-quite-as-healthy in its fried green tomato salad ($8). Crispy green tomatoes are matched with goat cheese, greens and a hazelnut vinaigrette.

L&N Wine Bar and Bistro (1765 Mellwood Ave., 897-0070) successful shrimp and grits entree ($25) serves up grilled prawns with Kenny’s horseradish white cheddar grits, smoked tomato chutney and, you guessed it, fried green tomatoes. A fried green tomato appetizer ($8) consists of buttermilk-and-cornmeal-battered tomatoes with buttermilk dressing and a roasted corn, tomato and poblano pepper relish.

Lynn’s Paradise Cafe (984 Barret Ave., 583-3447) Need a quick FGT fix? Order up a side of the fried green ones ($2.25) accompanied by a cheesy dip made with Capriole goat cheese. For more substance, the fried green tomato BLT ($10.25) layers fried green tomatoes, apple-smoked bacon, lettuce and Parmesan garlic mayo atop honey wheatberry bread.