Molly Malone’s Irish Pub
933 Baxter Ave, 473-1222
Truth be told, I’ve never traveled to Ireland. So my idea of a genuine Irish pub includes stereotypes such as large pints of overflowing Guinness, televised football matches (that’s soccer to us) and an occasional sing-along — basically a happy place to hang out and sip a bit of the stout.
Molly Malone’s Irish Pub & Restaurant successfully feeds this fantasy. It’s a cozy venue chock-full of Emerald Isle decor and dark wood paneling. The menu carries forward the theme as well: Traditional Irish fare such as bangers and mash, Scotch egg and lamb stew share space with pub-fare regulars like burgers and wings.
One of the kitchen’s highlights — the daily soup specials — isn’t even noted on the menu. The pub generally offers three soups, but I’ve been there when as many as five were available. The offerings have ranged from shrimp-and-dumpling and tomato basil to chili and chicken noodle. Chef Carla Haddad has even toyed with a parsnip soup and a salmon chowder. Her concoctions are generally interesting, but it’s easy to see why the potato and leek soup ($2.75 for a cup) has become the only permanent selection among them. This buttermilk-colored bowl of warmth was properly flavored and presented as a thick puree of potatoes and roasted leeks melded with garlic, cream and seasonings. My advice: Don’t bother with extra salt or pepper, and feel free to dunk the crumbly house-made soda bread.
If you’re into quantity, Molly’s fish and chips ($9) are well worth the price. Two beer-battered Icelandic cod fillets literally draped themselves over my plate — portions are that large. The golden-hued deep-fried fish is coated with a crispy crust so thick it practically slides off the fish, which remains moist and tender. After several visits, this is my go-to item; however, on a recent trip one of my fillets seemed to have jumped out of the deep fryer a bit too early, for it’s coating erred on the mushy side. Seasoned fries, which are routinely crispy and tasty, accompany the dish, along with a housemade tartar sauce.
Don’t expect the same large portion with the St. Patrick’s Shepherd’s Pie ($10), which comes with a side of your choice (I ordered steamed broccoli.). When I ordered it, a medley of ground beef, carrots, tomatoes, onion, celery and peas was stewed together in a Guinness-based broth and served in a crock. It was topped with a heap of mashed potatoes and then baked, arriving with a browned crust. If you like mashed potatoes, this dish is for you. Mine was about 75 percent mashed potatoes and 25 percent meat and veggies. The presence of chunky vegetables added nice color and texture, but overall the meat mixture tasted bland.
I was most impressed with the Blarney Chicken Pasta ($10), which matched a generous amount of grilled white chicken meat rubbed with Cajun seasoning with penne pasta, baby spinach and a slightly creamy, caramel-colored tomato basil sauce. My favorite part of the dish was the spinach, which, thankfully, was not overcooked; rather, it was sauteed gently and retained its color, fresh flavor and texture. While the dish carried some heat — the type that lingers on the back of your tongue after each bite — I would describe it as more tangy than spicy. Subtle Parmesan and basil notes in the sauce calmed down the heat and added a somewhat nutty sweetness to the dish.
Perhaps this dish is a bit of the blarney itself, veering as it does away from traditional ingredients. But it shares with Molly Malone’s a spirit of fun — and a bit of adventure. While the menu has some hits and misses, the pub more than makes up for them with its bit of the Irish.
