LouLife

As someone whose career began as an advertising copywriter, I certainly understand hype; in fact, I probably respect skillful puffery more than most people. But one of the problems with building things up is the risk of providing even more of a letdown — which is how I ended up feeling after a couple of recent visits to Rivue, the revolving restaurant atop the Galt House’s West Tower.

Rivue’s website breathlessly describes the restaurant as “unlike anything you’ve seen before. . . . More than a new restaurant, it’s dining at a whole new level.” And (going with the copy’s pun) on one “level,” Rivue lives up to its description. The restaurant does feature “breathtaking panoramic views, sophisticated decor, and twin revolving floors that let you drink it all in.” The redecorated dining room has a Continental feel, with white walls and pale green accents of apples and lilies.

Elegant decor and a panorama of the local landscape attract diners; the winning New Yorkstrip (left).

With the renovation, the revolving parts of Rivue are quite pleasant, allowing you to pass by a panorama of the city and Southern Indianawhile revisiting fellow diners who stay put in the non-revolving section. It makes for great entertainment during a meal. Unfortunately, until the kitchen improves over what I experienced, the view could be the best part of your time at Rivue.

I enjoyed my bruschetta ($8), a boldly flavored combination of Gorgonzola and ground walnuts on French bread served with fig jam and port-poached pear. And my Bibb lettuce salad ($7) was a fine contrast of tastes and textures. The tender lettuce arrived in a hollowed-out cucumber ring, waiting for a tumble with ripe cantaloupe, grilled asparagus and country ham crisps. A sour-mash vinaigrette provided just the right bite, plus a bit of bourbon flavor, and overall the dish had a nice balance of sweetness, sourness and saltiness.

On the other hand, the Rivue salad ($9) was a disaster — and I had it twice just to make sure. While the menu suggested that my “vine-ripened” tomato would be “gently roasted,” the two I was served were stone cold and disconcertingly crisp. What seemed like a delightful idea at the height of tomato season instead turned out to be a waste of Capriole goat cheese and golden raisins — although the plate presentation (like everything I had from the kitchen at Rivue) was very attractive.

On the whole, my visits to Rivue turned up too many dishes that sounded good, but fell far short of their description. My romaine salad ($7), with its tower of herb-flecked white beans, grilled pieces of romaine and a Parmesan crisp, looked great, but the beans were dry and bland, and the crisp was as thick and tough as leather, but more salty. A charcuterie platter ($15 for two people) was attractive, but everything was bland — the rubbery seafood sausage, the dull duck liver mousse, the dry pate maison, even the boring white cheddar pecan cheese. (When the most flavorful items in your charcuterie are pickled vegetables, you’ve got a problem.)

My pork Brescia ($22), slices of tenderloin scallopine in a white wine, mustard and shiitake cream sauce over red pepper angel hair pasta, was fork-tender, but tasteless. Lamb osso buco ($26) suffered a similar fate — meltingly tender, yet so under-seasoned I couldn’t even detect the slight gaminess of lamb (a bland, overcooked risotto was no help either). Another entree, the chicken Baccala ($20) — chicken breasts stuffed with smoked mozzarella and arugula, wrapped in country ham and served with a “red eye demi” — definitely had flavor, but it was all salty country ham.

The tenderness of the chicken breasts showed the kitchen knows how to cook meat, as did my New Yorkstrip ($33). The 16-ounce center-cut strip was cooked to order (medium-rare) yet had a delightfully crispy sear. Truffle fries, served in a coffee mug alongside the steak, were great. The thin-sliced potato wedges were somewhere between fry and chip, and a light hand with the truffle oil made their crispness even more tasty.

For dessert, I liked a trio of sorbets ($8), yet was confused when my waiter confirmed a suspicion at our table that they were Haagen-Dazs. (The chef told me during a later conversation that Rivue now makes sorbets in-house). My Rivue Florentine ($8) was an overabundance of whipped cream in a too-tough pastry shell with too few berries to balance. But I did enjoy a cup of coffee while the sunset rotated past me.

I hope Rivue takes another look at its menu, which has some interesting ideas (if not good execution). As of this writing, the bill of fare seems unfocused, with an uncomfortable bl/files/storyimages/of European and local influences. The Galt House’s top restaurant has a great space, an artistic touch with plate decoration and an outstanding view. It would be fitting if they took things to a “new level” in the kitchen.