Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge
446 S. Fourth St., 568-9009
Having moved here not long ago from Chicago, my husband and I constantly think of how to dispel misconceptions among the friends we left behind that Louisville is a small town. We’ve even made a game out of it. The rules are simple: If our out-of-state friends visited tomorrow, where could we take them that would change their views of this city?
I considered placing Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge in Fourth Street Live on my must-take list, but last year, after testing my theory on an out-of-town guest, I removed it. The restaurant’s American tapas-style menu, while great in theory, did not work in practice. The menu’s merging of courses and suggestion that they may be eaten in any order seemed fun, until my dessert and entree came out at the same time. Then my salad followed. It became confusing and overwhelming. I wasn’t the only one who felt this way. Executive chef Anthony Lusiak, who developed the concept with Philadelphia-based chef Al Paris, now says that diners demanded more entrees. This led to a menu makeover.
The new bill of fare demonstrates a strong Asian influence paired with local ingredients. While still exhibiting an adventurous attitude, the offerings have been separated into tapas (appetizers), salads, entrees and desserts. This makes dining less confusing, and it allows guests to better take in the scene.
What a scene it is. If ever there were a place for low lighting, low-riding jeans and a techno soundtrack, this is it. As if taking cues from a hipster handbook, Maker’s Mark Lounge capitalizes on slick minimalism with its use of blond- and dark-wood fixtures, flat-screen TVs, a double-decker fireplace, sleek red-tiled pillars, and a back-lit bar that pays homage to all of Kentucky’s bourbons.
Seating is either very low, with small round tops surrounded by leather benches or cushioned armchairs, or very high on elevated tops. It’s cozy, in a get-to-know-your-neighbor kind of way. On a recent Saturday evening we were sandwiched between one couple snuggling and another couple who ordered a round of drinks for new friends they encountered earlier at the bar. The table behind us hosted a birthday celebration. A family of four peeked out from behind a sheer golden curtain on the side.
When I wasn’t people-watching, I was concentrating on the extensive menu. Crispy duck confit spring rolls ($12), which combined shredded duck meat, shiitake mushrooms and plum sauce in a deep-fried wrapper, made a good starter. The four crunchy spring rolls surrounded a pile of Asian pear slaw, which had a tart, citrusy flavor that grew on me as I ate it. (Asian pears t/files/storyimages/to be crunchier and less sweet than their American counterparts.) Drizzled bourbon sauce decorated the plate and added sweetness to the piquant slaw.
Black-skillet-seared scallops ($15 lunch, $18 dinner) included about seven of the medium-sized mollusks around a mound of curried couscous. I prefer my scallops a bit more blackened and seared than the soft, somewhat mushy ones I received here. The couscous, however, was pleasant: Small pearls of Israeli couscous were mixed with hints of curry powder and dried currants and then dressed in a sweet soy sauce, creating subtle and striking flavor nuances.
For its innovation alone, the “naked” lobster ravioli ($30) was worth ordering. A thin sheet of overcooked pasta sprawled across the plate, with a stack of sauteed julienned zucchini, yellow squash, red peppers, carrots and pieces of lobster meat grouped at its center. Another pasta sheet, with another mound of veggies and lobster, lay on top. Deep-fried pasta swirls, resembling bacon bits, garnished the dish, and a light champagne-tarragon butter sauce dressed the pasta sheets. It provided just enough butter and tarragon flavor to enhance the delicate, chewy lobster meat. The deconstructed pasta was original, colorful and satisfying.
The Thai crab cakes ($17) shared the same success. Four large crustacean patties circled a spinach salad topped with a sesame soy dressing and deep-fried sweet potato straws. The perfectly crisped and golden crust concealed a moist filling of large crabmeat chunks, breadcrumbs, chives, red bell pepper and chiles. A sweet red chile marmalade, which looked like crimson ketchup, adorned each cake. It was then dotted with a cashew sambal, which is basically a cashew paste hinting of ginger, cilantro, soy and molasses. This flavor-packed dish presented a winning flavor amalgam.
The grilled double-cut New Zealand lamb chops ($31), paired with a basil-mint pesto and a polenta cake topped with sauteed mushrooms and melted Gruyere, was a tasty option, but in no way compared to the lobster ravioli or crab cakes. Messy and difficult best describes the bourbon-grilled flank steak sandwich ($9), which failed to dress up beef that was too tough and too rare. Redemption occurred after I partook in the luscious, decadent brownie stack ($8) — a two-brownie sandwich filled with bourbon whipped cream. Chocolate sauce and chocolate shavings covered the sweet treat.
Maker’s Mark Bourbon House & Lounge fuses a swanky environment with an innovative menu in a non-intimidating way. The decor, wait staff and menu place this restaurant on par with many a big-city venue. It’s found its way back onto our list of local places for guests from out of town.
