On paper, 28-year-old chef Allan Rosenberg looks like a good bet to succeed with his own kitchen. His resume includes stints with renowned New York chefs Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud as well as with Louisville’s Anoosh Shariat. However, his goal is lofty: presenting a fine-dining experience without pretension or high prices. After dining at Danielle’s on two occasions, I feel Rosenberg is on track to fulfill that mission.
Danielle’s, named for Rosenberg’s wife, exhibits casual elegance with a contemporary twist. Shades of gold, red and black now embellish the dining room in what was the original Lynn’s Paradise Cafe location and, more recently, Little Bit of Seoul. It’s hip, but not so hip that non-hipsters will feel self-conscious. The modern art decorating the walls draws attention without being distracting, and well-spaced tables add to an airy, comfortable vibe. A small bar in back of the dining room features many “micro” or unpublicized American wines and beers and offers views of the open kitchen.
Rosenberg’s one-page menu of “first” and “main” courses is saturated with his signature trait of marrying sweet with savory. The cuisine is Kentucky homestyle infused with a Latin or Asian flare. I started with the appetizer of pan-roasted sea scallops ($11). An oversized bowl hosted two large, slightly crisped scallops that sat in a pool of caramel sauce and pan-roasted juices. House-made sweet potato dumplings, diced caramelized apples and candied pecans flavored the dish. The amount of sweetness was determined by how much sauce you scooped up — or used as a bread dipper. I enjoyed how the components brought out the scallops’ own natural sweetness.
The truffle-infused corn bisque ($8) was simple and sublime. An enticing smell of truffles ascended from the bowl, which contained a broth of roasted-corn puree infused with chipotle. The soothing soup was creamy with a nice heat kick, although it didn’t need the addition of poached lobster tail, which in my case was too mushy to enjoy anyway.
A coconut and tuna ceviche ($9) wasn’t quite as successful. The beautiful presentation made a good first impression. A martini glass held layers of pico de gallo and large cubes of tuna that were tossed with a sweet ginger cream (a concoction of cooked and cooled coconut milk and sweetened and unsweetened ginger), and a tangled mass of pin-rice noodles topped the dish. But they didn’t add much beyond looks — even the server admitted they were just decoration — and I had to dig through them to get to the tuna. Ceviche connoisseurs beware: This dish is more tartare than ceviche. My bites were either too heavy on the salt or too sweet. The amalgam of flavors just didn’t mesh.
Also difficult for me was the Caesar salad ($6), which departed from tradition with a chipotle Caesar dressing that erred more on the chipotle side. A long toasted ancho chile-flavored crouton and Parmesan crisp were presented with it, and the salad contained real anchovies. If a fishy, zesty salads tickle your taste buds, this one’s for you. I wasn’t a fan.
Kentucky bison short ribs ($16) really exemplified Rosenberg’s mastery of sweet-and-savory fusion. Succulent fork-tender bison short ribs sat center-plate with a tamarind barbecue sauce and pureed mash of rutabaga. While similar in texture to beef, the bison tasted somewhat sweeter and leaner. It soaked up the tangy tomato-based tamarind sauce, which hinted of clove, coriander and cinnamon. The glazed carrots garnish added a comforting appeal while the bitter rutabaga toned down the dish’s sweet notes. Topped with watercress, the tangy dish was sauce-heavy but tasty.
Likewise, grilled salmon ($18) perched atop a bed of creamy and rich caramelized onion grits proved pleasing. Sandwiched between the seared salmon and grits was a wonderful portobello mushroom soaked in a red-wine reduction sauce that was also used to dot the plate. None of the flavors overpowered the tasty fish, yet each added its own complementary note.
Saving the best find for last, I’m pleased to report that Danielle’s burger was easily one of the best available in Louisville. A juicy, thick, hand-formed patty covered with a Maytag blue cheese sauce and thin slices of caramelized onions arrived on a grilled poppy seed bun. Albeit messy, the burger oozed flavor and juiciness. An oversized wax-paper cone held Belgian-style truffle fries. A bit thicker than the shoe-string variety, these crisp, golden fries glistened in truffle oil. The best part: The burger is $9.
Rosenberg, who also has been a pastry chef, formed a small but appealing dessert menu (each item is $6). We selected ginger mango mousse egg rolls — two cannoli-like toasted phyllo dough shells sprinkled with powdered sugar and stuffed with a ginger mango cream. Light, crunchy and smooth, the tasty “egg rolls” were served with a dipping sauce trio: a delicate green tea, honey-like saffron mango, and a rich and decadent dark chocolate — all in all, a sweet ending for a hearty meal
Prepared with thought and precision, Rosenberg’s food captures ingredient nuances in innovative, accessible ways. With knowledgeable and friendly servers, Danielle’s mingles amiability with ambition, creating an enjoyable dining environment. Rosenberg plans to change the menu every six to eight weeks, although certain items will remain. I’m counting on the burger to be among them.
If You Go
Danielle’s, 2206 Frankfort Ave., 893-7677. Open for dinner Tuesday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. Sunday brunch is 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
