Bistro
Are restaurants entitled to an off-night? I wondered this recently as I drove across the river to dine at Bistro New Albany. It would be my second time dining at this
Let me backtrack. The bistro opened in May and is situated downtown in the former New Albany Inn. Separate rooms adjoined by a lobby complete the indoor dining space, where a palette of dark yellow, light mocha and original artwork has been used to decorate the walls. White cloths drape over tables that are topped with glass. Weather permitting, the outdoor courtyard provides an intimate and cozy dining area outfitted with wrought-iron, umbrella-topped tables, a stone fountain and lush greenery and flowers. A pleasant setting.
During my first visit one recent Friday night the restaurant bustled due to a special event. While we were seated within minutes, it was clearly a chaotic atmosphere and things did not go well. A second visit shortly thereafter was substantially more enjoyable. The dining room was far less crowded, service was prompt and the food was prepared with much more care and precision.
An order of fries and dip ($5) became a great start. A hot plate of crisped-to-golden, skin-on waffle fries sat beneath mild nuggets of blue cheese. A cup of a chunky blue cheese dressing provided extra dip. My husband’s Bistro Chicken Saute ($14) showcased a pan-prepared breast, which melded well with properly heated sun-dried tomatoes, red and yellow peppers, red onions and fresh basil. A side of creamy polenta maintained the agreeable flavor. The light garlic-laced olive oil sauce complemented all of the ingredients.
My delightful Penne Pomodoro ($13) presented the tube pasta tossed in a housemade sun-dried tomato pesto with loads of fresh basil. The flavorful sauce was chunky with a nice dose of garlic. A scoop of Capriole goat cheese topped the dish and added some mild, fresh flavor. However, the pasta remained light, with a good balance of flavor and delicateness.
We were too stuffed for dessert.
During my first meal there, multiple large parties (many of which had reservations) overwhelmed the servers. “I’m sorry, we’re just so busy,” was a constantly heard apology as they struggled to keep up. So we weren’t surprised when it took 20 minutes to receive our glasses of water.
We perused a well-put-together menu, which features many straightforward chicken, steak, seafood and pasta dishes. Unfortunately, not all of them were excellently executed on this occasion. I expected the grilled asparagus appetizer ($7.25) to display plump, slightly charred, firm-but-tender stalks. Instead, I received a stack of limp stalks. The thin, stringy asparagus sat in a thick pool of red wine vinaigrette, which overpowered the delicate vegetable. Even a topping of diced red pepper, a scoop of Capriole goat cheese and a diced red cabbage garnish couldn’t save a dish that appeared and tasted hastily put together. Pan-seared Gulf Coast-style crab cakes ($8) faired better. Two hand-formed moist patties boasted more filling than crab, but were well-seasoned with a spicy and tangy mixture. A swirl of remoulade embellished the cakes, which sat atop fresh greens.
Where were our entrees? We waited as a party of two arrived roughly 20 minutes after us, then watched them eat, pay and leave. Thirty minutes later we found ourselves alone in the dining room. The restaurant, we were told, typically shuts down at 9:30 p.m. Our entrees came to the table around 9:20. (We had arrived a little after 7.) We dined against a soundtrack of doors locking and the aroma of Windex as servers cleaned the tables near us.
My husband’s Cajun pasta ($15) wasn’t worth the wait. Thick, wavy pappardelle noodles were cooked perfectly al dente, but the alleged spicy cream sauce lacked any noticeable heat. Instead, the peach-colored sauce tasted bland. While a good portion of tasty bite-sized pieces of rock shrimp peppered the pasta, only one out of the five mussels served had been heated long enough to open up.
My Black Angus Sirloin ($18.25) was a nice portion of local Creekstone Farms steak. It wasn’t the best steak I’ve ever eaten, but it certainly wasn’t the worst. A few buttery sauteed onions topped the thick steak, which had been grilled medium, as specified.
We were, as one server described, “lost in the shuffle.” Yes, we received apologies, and we were given two complimentary desserts (usually priced $5). But we left disappointed.
I comm/files/storyimages/Bistro New Albany for acknowledging and accepting responsibility for a disastrous night on our first visit. The restaurant showed on second inspection that it can fulfill much of its menu’s promise.
