Few things are more satisfying than being seated for a relaxing outdoor meal with a warm breeze brushing against your skin and a satisfying entree glowing under simple candlelight. Winter has kept this scenario behind closed doors, but you can evoke much of it with a dinner in Artemisia’s heated courtyard. Ivy-covered brick walls, votive candles and colored lights strung high above set the mood, completed by wrought-iron tables and chairs that add to the patio dining feel.
Inside, art is the theme. The bold red and cocoa walls and the ebony-hued tables set the stage for rotating paintings by local artists. Once a coffee shop and later home to the Erin Devine Gallery, Artemisia is at once comfortable and a bit cutting-edge — and that’s not a bad description of its menu, too. When the restaurant opened in 2000, it was one of the pioneers on now-resurgent East Market Street. There have been changes in ownership and in the kitchen since that time. The menu’s thrust, after periods of being vegetarian- and fusion-focused, now leans toward “contemporary Continental.” Executive chef Allen Heintzman joined the restaurant a year ago and brought with him an affection for French and New Orleans cuisine. Under his aegis, Artemisia takes risks by offering items such as quail and rabbit, but also soothes the wary diner with chicken, pasta and steak dishes.
On a recent visit, we started with the foie gras “pan perdu” ($14) and calamari ($10). Pan perdu, which translates to “lost bread” in French, was basically unsweetened French toast boasting slivers of melt-in-your-mouth goose liver. The foie gras was rich and smooth, but the toast a bit tough, while the accompanying orange marmalade and blueberry coulis displayed a jammy consistency and tartness that added to the complexity. The calamari was our server’s recommendation and did not disappoint. Large, meaty squid ringlets were lightly battered and salted. A lovely caper dill sauce dotted the plate, which was garnished with pepperoncini, white onion and greens. I enjoyed the crunch and texture of each ringlet.
Artemisia’s marinated sirloin steak with roasted vegetables and mashed potatoes.
My husband ordered applewood-smoked Duncan Farms rabbit ($18), which arrived fresh that day from Shelby County. The braised rabbit exhibited tenderness and lacked gaminess. My marinated sirloin steak ($27) arrived as three decent-sized sirloin pieces grilled with a charred crust. The center remained pink and tender, as requested, and the steak sat in a sweet red-wine reduction that softened the rough edges, so to speak, of the robust meat. The accompanying mashed potatoes were creamy textured, and a tasty melange of roasted organic vegetables rounded out the dish.
Desserts weren’t as successful as our entrees. The grapefruit with honey sorbet of the day ($4) sounded wonderful on paper, but didn’t earn much fanfare. The grapefruit sorbet sat atop a mound of frozen honey, which proved too gummy and sticky to eat. The bittersweet chocolate Cointreau mousse cake ($6.50) was very dry and lacked flavor. It sat in a tiny pool of Cointreau that seemed to merely dampen the bottom layer without enhancing it.
Artemisia’s lunch menu includes an intriguing list of sandwich options along with daily soup and quiche specials. If you’re craving something zesty and spicy, the black bean burger ($8) will do the trick. I’ve been pleased with the pan-fried fish tostada ($12), which serves up salmon with onions, peppers, white cheddar cheese and guacamole dressed in a sweet chili sauce on a crispy tostada. Incidentally, the tostada is an item that has been retained from the original Year 2000 menu.
I’m always interested to see how chefs might make something familiar innovative, so I started a recent midday meal with a Caesar salad ($7). Artemisia takes whole romaine lettuce leaves, lays them on the plate and tops them with Parmesan cheese crumbles and four house-made croutons. It’s a pretty presentation despite some extra work on the diner’s part to cut up the lettuce. The dressing was creamy and garlicky, with a hint of lemon.
After hearing some buzz about the Artemisia burger ($9), I decided to try it. The ground Angus-beef patty was served with field greens and tomato. For an additional $1 each you can add toppings such as sauteed mushrooms, peppers, onion, applewood-smoked bacon and cheese. I added caramelized onions and white cheddar cheese. The well-seasoned, hand-formed patty was cooked perfectly. It was very juicy with nice bursts of pepper flavor. A warning: It’s not as firm as most burgers and messy in an I-really-need-to-wash-my-hands-and-face way. The patty sat on a toasted bun (mine, unfortunately, bordered on the burned) and my accompaniment of choice was the shoestring fries.
I appreciated Artemisia’s effort to use local and organic ingredients and found the servers to be pleasant and knowledgeable. The artsy decor can accommodate most anything from power-lunching to a Saturday date night. And on the patio, while it’s not exactly like dining under the stars, it’s a nice substitute until warm weather settles in.
If You Go
Artemisia, 620 East Market St., 583-4177, Open for lunch Tuesday-Friday, 11 a.m-3 p.m. Dinner hours are Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m. and Friday-Saturday, 5:30-11 p.m.
