I have no objection to sushi or sashimi served as tiny works of art in polite surroundings, but sometimes I take extra-special pleasure in rolling up my sleeves and eating my seafood the American way — deep-fried. The folks at THE SEAFOOD CONNECTION (3922 Chenoweth Square, 899-5655) have frying down to an art; they serve up some of the best crispy-crusted marine succulence I’ve sampled in this town.
A combination fish market and lunch counter, this strip-mall nook offers a small but inventive lunch menu served up by the man behind the counter, Michael Hungerford. My favorite finned fare — and according to Hungerford, his most popular item — is the San Diego fish taco ($3 small, $6 large). It consists of a lightly battered filet of cod wrapped in a toasted tortilla and topped with shredded lettuce, his special jalapeno sour cream cheese sauce and a citrus pico de gallo (Hungerford makes it fresh daily), garnished with tangy fried capers. Another top pick, the All American Fish Sandwich ($5), is big on taste (battered in a Parmesan and cornmeal breading), not grease — and was a delight to my dining mate, who usually eschews deep-fried foods.
Not everything is fried. Noteworthies include a superior sauteed Chesapeake crab cake ($5) and miniature house-made salmon burgers ($7). Service is fast and friendly, but there are only eight stools at the stainless-steel bar, so plan your visit to avoid the lunch rush. The Seafood Connection kitchen is open Monday through Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m.
