Pizza is a food item I generally prefer to leave rather than take. Called upon by my persnickety pre-teen son to bake it or order it in at least twice per week, I have often longed for the day when I’ll never have to look at another pizza. But on a gorgeous early summer night, like Saul on the road to
Our sweetheart of a neighbor Melissa called to invite us over for dinner. The first thing I discovered when I rounded the corner to her brick patio was the scent of wood smoke. The second was the aroma of fresh basil. Soon to follow was the magic that happens when two of the most basic elements in the culinary world become engaged: bread dough and fired-up mesquite charcoal. In a word, everything about the scene was irresistible: the picnic table shaded by its umbrella, the bottles of red wine already opened, the bounty of fresh summer vegetables scattered over cutting boards, the kids bouncing around the yard, leaving the adults alone to drink — and gasp at the wonder of the pizzas coming off the grill. “It’s high summer eating at its best,” Melissa said.
When I asked her where she learned to make the pizzas, even though she was at that very moment pulling the dough like a pro, she dashed off inside to grab up her copy of the September 1998 issue of Kitchen Garden magazine (now defunct), which she subscribed to when she lived in Santa Fe. The article was written by Johanne Killeen and George Germon, chef/owners of Al Forno Restaurant in
Melissa says that the key to making these pizzas is not to be afraid to experiment. And have confidence in your ability to work the dough — in both the kneading and the grilling. Basically, you have to act like you already know the dough and it’s not going to bully you. The idea behind her backyard pizza grill-out: Once people catch on to how it works, they’ll want to attempt their own. But the guests in Melissa’s yard that night seemed to want her to do all of the grilling. She was just too good at it. We all marveled at her swiftness in brushing, flipping and topping the pizzas, without a single thing going awry. You really can’t believe how quickly they cook — and how much easier they are to make than the in-depth instructions may lead you to believe.
First things first. Grilling pizza requires a hot fire started with kindling and fueled with hardwood charcoal. A gas grill just won’t do. Melissa uses 100 percent hardwood mesquite (available in supermarkets). If you have a large grill, build your fire on one side of the grill. You’ll want a cool area on the grill in order to add the toppings without burning the bottom of the crust.
Set up your work area as close to the grill as possible. The dough, olive oil and a variety of topping ingredients should be close at hand and ready before you begin. The crispy, chewy texture of the grilled pizza comes from the irregularity of the dough stretched by hand rather than with a rolling pin. When you transfer the dough from the work surface to the grill it has a tendency to stretch and sag a bit, so it is a good idea to work very close to the grill. Stretch and grill the pizzas one at a time.
When choosing toppings for the pizza, the authors advise, keep in mind that less is more. If the ingredients on top are too thick, the dough will burn before the top has a chance to cook. The pizza should cook in little more than five minutes. If after eight minutes the cheese is not melted and the toppings are not bubbling, either your fire is not hot enough or you have placed an excess of ingredients on top. More time on the grill will only dry out and toughen the pizza.
And one final word about working with dough: Prepare to rely far more heavily on your hands than on a rolling pin.
RECIPE:
Grilled Pizza With Tomato and Three Cheeses
(Makes enough dough for six 10- to 12-inch pizzas)
For the crust:
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
? cup warm water
1? cups cool water
6 cups unbleached flour
2? teaspoons kosher salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
For the topping:
Olive oil with as much minced
garlic as you like
Grated Parmesan cheese
Grated fontina cheese
Grated pecorino cheese
Sliced tomatoes
Fresh basil leaves
Combine the yeast and warm water in a large bowl. Let stand until the yeast is dissolved and the water is foamy on the surface, about five minutes. Stir in the cool water. Combine the flour and the salt and add them to the yeast mixture; then mix until the dough comes together. When the dough is firm enough to hold its shape, scrape it and the remaining flour onto the counter and knead until it’s smooth and shiny, about seven minutes. Knead by hand or by using a heavy-duty mixer with the dough hook on medium speed until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
Brush a large clean mixing bowl with olive oil. Add the dough and brush the surface with more olive oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place away from drafts until doubled in bulk, about two hours.
Punch down the dough and divide it into six to eight balls. Cover the balls with plastic wrap and let them rise for at least 45 minutes at room temperature. While the dough is rising, prepare a hot hardwood-charcoal fire, setting the grill rack three to four inches above the coals.
Prepare the topping ingredients. Brush the back side of a large baking sheet with a tablespoon of olive oil. Place one ball of dough on the pan and turn it over to coat with oil. With your hands, spread and flatten the pizza dough into a 10- to 12-inch free-form circle, about ?-inch thick. If the dough shrinks back into itself, let it stand for a few minutes, then continue to spread and flatten the dough. Do not make a lip.
When the fire is hot, use your fingertips to lift the dough gently by the two corners closest to you and drape it onto the coolest part of the grill rack; then guide it into place over the fire. Cover; within two to three minutes the dough will puff slightly, the underside will stiffen and grill marks will appear. Using tongs, immediately flip the crust over onto the coolest part of the grill. Quickly brush the grilled pizza surface with the olive oil and garlic.
After the toppings have been added, slide the pizza back toward the hot coals so that about half of the pizza is directly over the heat. Rotate the pizza frequently so that different sections receive high heat and check the underside by lifting the edge with tongs to be sure it is not burning. The pizza is done when the top is bubbling and the cheese is melted. Garnish with five fresh basil leaves, torn by hand. Serve immediately.
Continue stretching the dough balls and grilling pizzas, using the above topping ingredients along with any other vegetables you might desire.
