On a recent visit to AVALON (1314 Bardstown Road, 454-5336) I ordered the duck confit spring rolls and asked myself the question, “What would the French, who zealously guard their food traditions, think of stuffing their beloved duck confit (a specialty of Gascony, France) into a spring roll?” At first they might slam their black berets down in detestation, but after taking a bite or two they would probably reconsider and conclude, as I did, that it is a very satisfying dish.
The creation is the brainchild of new chef Chip Lawrence. Well, Lawrence actually is not that new — he was the first chef to take charge of the kitchen when Avalon opened. Now back in charge, he has updated some of the regular staples on the menu and added a few of his own.
A new edition not to miss is the abovementioned delicacy ($8). The appetizer consists of duck confit, onion, napa cabbage and carrot cocooned nicely inside a lightly fried spring roll wrapper. The crunch of the vegetables balances the tenderness of the duck, and the roll itself left little oil on my fingertips. It’s served with a refreshingly sweet ginger and sesame slaw and a spicy mustard dipping sauce for those who like to add a little heat.
