Former BBC chefs Chris Gibson, second from left, and David Salvo, far right, have opened Fusion. As a longtime Bluegrass Brewing Company fan, I was excited to try Fusion, the new restaurant recently established by former BBC chefs Chris Gibson and David Salvo. Looking to take it up a notch from the pub grub that dominates the menu at the St. Matthews brew house, Salvo and Gibson opened a new business in Butchertown at the former site of Greek Paradise. Their premise: bl/files/storyimages/a variety of international flavors to create unique taste experiences. I’m happy to report their success.
While the location (hard to find) and parking (there’s a cramped, unpaved lot in back) are somewhat unfortunate, the atmosphere inside Fusion trumpets elegant fun. The logo could easily be that of a retro ’50s diner, yet the interior is a classy bl/files/storyimages/of upscale and subtle art deco. Quiet jazz seeps through while diners sit in the bar area at the front of the restaurant or in the back dining room. In between is the busy, open kitchen. Each table has a candle and is covered with a simple black cloth to match the black chairs, and the perimeter of the main room is accented in wood.
My fri/files/storyimages/Jen and I stopped in for dinner on a recent Friday evening and didn’t have to wait for a table. Our server was a friendly young lady who barely looked 21 but who was never out of reach, and she quickly had menus and a wine list in front of us. The list was impressive in that it clearly was painstakingly chosen. About three dozen wines from around the world run the gamut of white and red grapes, as well as a few ports for after dinner and sparkling wines for special occasions — and most of the list is available by the glass, with most bottles are priced under $35.
I chose a glass of Barefoot Cellars Reserve Pinot Noir ($6.50), and Jen heard the call of the martini of the day — chocolate-covered cherry ($6.50). Then the fun began. While the bartender worked with Jen to create the martini she wanted, we were offered a sample of one of the appetizer specials, a spicy tuna dumpling. An intriguing pairing of ginger and garlic made this an appetizer like none I’d ever tried. The appetizer menu is only four deep, ranging from $9-$12, but Fusion apparently tries out new starters daily.
We decided to go straight for dinner entrees, although four salads and a wild mushroom and pancetta soup ($6) are available as well. I ordered the Tournadoes Etoufee ($17), while Jen chose Anasazi Salmon ($16). The nine-item entree menu tops out with Coconut Fried Lobster Tail ($26), while other intriguing selections like Thai Seafood Risotto ($22) and Brajolle of Veal ($17) ensure a difficult, but enjoyable, decision-making process.
Our server immediately brought warm bread and whipped butter as we sipped our drinks. The dense bread was seasoned with oregano, basil, garlic and olive oil, and nearly could have been a meal in itself. We had no more than a 10-minute wait for our entrees, both of which earned raves for presentation before we even picked up our forks.
Jen’s ample salmon filet was dusted in spices — Central and South American, according to the menu — and served atop roasted corn cakes. Sauteed spinach and mushrooms surrounded the perimeter of the cakes. The key success in this entree was the combination of fresh, moist salmon and the strategically-rationed spice, but the corn cakes (which had an interesting tartness) and spinach added a vital, earthy dimension to the overall flavor.
Meanwhile, my dinner was an enormous array food and tastes. I had been intrigued by the menu’s description of “pan-seared medallions of beef ... in a rich red wine Cajun demi-glace with succulent crawfish tail meat.” When I read “medallions,” I typically expect a couple of small steaks — this was nearly the equivalent of a small roast. And the etoufee was actually more like a mild gravy, but spiked with small, tender crawfish tails and chunks of green and red peppers. The entree also came with lightly seasoned garlic mashed potatoes and ratatouille that stretched between Italian and Cajun with a heartiness that mimicked creole. The dish was topped with fried onion strings.
While one can’t argue with the tender, perfectly-cooked medium-rare beef that anchored the meal, the chefs at Fusion added a fun touch — my dinner came with a steak knife that looked and felt like an open switchblade. This as much as anything speaks to the kind of fine-dining-with-a-wink experience Gibson and Salvo strive for.
A dessert special promised chocolate mousse flavored with cayenne — seriously — for $6. Jen was more interested in the Rhubarb and Blood Orange Lindser Tart ($9) on the regular dessert menu, but we were both too full (more restaurants should offer half-orders of desserts). We then found ourselves engaged in a discussion with Salvo about the restaurant’s inception while Jen sipped an after-dinner coffee (served with real cream). It seems even the coffee is a special blend, created by Gibson and Salvo specifically for Fusion during a caffeine-overloaded tasting session before the restaurant ever opened. It’s this kind of dedication and attention to detail that promises to position Fusion as one of the better restaurants in Louisville in the very near future.
Our bill came to $49.56, to which we added a $10 tip. It would be easy to sp/files/storyimages/double that by adding appetizers, dessert and a bottle of wine, but the experience would be worth the price. Jen assured me we’d be returning, so maybe she’ll get to try the blood oranges and rhubarb.
Fusion is located at 1605 Story Ave. Hours are Monday-Thursday 5-10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 5 p.m.-midnight. Smoking and non-smoking sections are available, and major credit cards are accepted. The back part of the restaurant is accessible to patrons in wheelchairs, but the entrance from Story Avenue requires a step up. Call 582-1801 for more info.
